Travel, a matter of mental satisfaction, comes from the French word 'travailler.' When it was first used, travel was not an easy undertaking. The meanings of 'travailler,' 'travel,' and 'traveller' offer some insight into this.
People have traveled throughout history for various reasons. There was a time when the purpose of travel was discovery. Figures like James Cook in the 18th century and Vasco da Gama before him had one thing in common—they traversed the earth in search of new lands. Many of the stories from the southern part of Asia have come to us through the writings of Shams-ud-Din. Abu Abdullah Muhammad ibn Batuta, or Ibn Battuta, was a Muslim traveler. Born in the 14th century, he spent his entire life traveling and became famous for his journeys around the world. From his writings, we gain much insight into Bangladesh at the time: 'After spending forty-three nights at sea, we finally reached Bangladesh, a vast country surrounded by greenery, where rice is abundant. Everything else is so cheap there that I have never seen anything like it elsewhere.'
With the passage of time, travel has changed; the world has become smaller. Traveling from one country to another year after year is no longer the same. But can one truly experience the sound of a leaf falling, the cry-laughter of foreign children, or taste exotic foods without travel? Maybe this is why technology is often blamed for taking away such emotions. In the present day, the meaning and purpose of travel have shifted considerably. Today, many people understand travel as simply taking a few pictures, recording some videos, or stirring up social media. The change in perception, joy, and expression over time is inevitable, and there is no negativity in that. The primary purpose of travel is joy; if there’s any dispute about this, in my perception, it cannot truly be called travel. If we must use that word to describe it, it should be preceded by an adjective.
Today's story is about a trip to Kuakata. Kuakata is a city in the southwestern part of Bangladesh. The region, with its 18 kilometers of coastline, has become one of the country's top tourist destinations. It is the only beach in Bangladesh where one can witness both the sunrise and sunset. Kuakata is 380 kilometers from Dhaka by road and just 108 kilometers from Barisal. It is located only 70 kilometers south of the district headquarters of Patuakhali.
Our journey began from Chittagong. A week before the trip, Prof Kibria called me to ask if I wanted to go to Kuakata. If I have enough time and an opportunity to travel, I never say no. I immediately told him that I would go—no hesitation in this decision. The backstory is that the Coastal River Conference 2022 was going to be held in Kuakata. A discussion on the success of recent genome sequencing of carp and dolphins, including some of our notable achievements, was to take place at this conference. It was an exciting opportunity. I had participated in a few conferences before, but this one was different as it involved a discussion of our work’s success. It made me especially excited.
Rohu, Catla, Mrigal, and Kalibaus—these are four famous fish in the Halda River. They spawn in the Halda at a specific time of the year, and the local people have been collecting those eggs and hatching them in their traditional way for generations. As a child, I watched chickens hatch their eggs. Growing up in a village, I also heard the chirping of birds hatching from eggs laid in tree gaps. I first learned about Halda River's unique hatching method at the university. This well-organized regional method is unmatched anywhere else in the world. The idea of hatching eggs from these fragile fish eggs using their own methods is something I can only compare to the work of a scientist. Our research was focused on the whole genome sequencing of these four species of fish and dolphins. After working for more than two years, we achieved success and gained international recognition. This coastal conference was an opportunity to share these successes. It was an incredibly joyful experience for me.
We boarded the Turna Nishita train’s AC sleeping class from Chittagong to Dhaka. The train leaves Chittagong around 11 p.m., and we arrived at the station before 11 with our bags. There was no hint of cold in Chittagong, even though it was winter. In this area, warm clothes aren't much needed, and the same applies to Cox’s Bazar. I've seen winter end quickly in these places due to the warm sea breeze. Since Kuakata is a coastal town, I didn’t prepare much for winter. I only packed a thick jacket, a blazer, a couple of warm clothes, a few shirts, pants, and a lungi. That’s all I packed.
The train was delayed by five minutes, and after some chat with Dr Kibria, we retired to our respective beds. I’ve traveled in this sleeping class before. The last time, there was a malfunction with the sound system, and the constant blaring alarm at every station had been very annoying. But this time, that inconvenience was avoided. The train slowly began to move, and soon I fell into a deep sleep. I’ve always been able to sleep during train journeys without trouble. The rhythmic sound of the train didn’t bother me much. But after some time, I woke up again, realizing the train was swaying like a Chittagong University shuttle train (those who knows, can relate it). I had heard that when the stones on the tracks wear down, this happens. I couldn't fall back asleep after that. We arrived at Dhaka's Kamalapur station at around 6 a.m.
From Kamalapur Railway Station, we took a car to the university guest house. This time, Dhaka city was peaceful, as it usually is during the early mornings. The hustle of cars and people was almost non-existent. Dhaka’s life revolves around a 24-hour clock, with the city calm before 6 a.m. and after midnight. We arrived at the university guest house in about 15 minutes. This guest house is not for students but for university teachers and guests. Since I was traveling with Prof Kibria, I was considered a guest for this trip. The building had a sign outside and well-furnished rooms inside. A gentleman showed us to the room next to the Vice-Chancellor’s. When the staff came to clean, Dr Kibria told them not to bother, as we would only stay for a short time. After 20 minutes, we resumed our journey, with our next destination being Dhaka Sadarghat.
There is a saying in Chittagong: "Outside it is neat, but inside it is Sadarghat." This saying refers to those who appear fancy on the outside but lack substance. I’ve been to Sadarghat many times before. I’ve taken ferries from here to Bhola and Nijhum Island. Sadarghat is like a fish market, where haggling is common. People even sell vacant spaces here for hefty prices. Only a few boats take passengers without overcharging. Our ticket was with Green Line, so we didn’t have to deal with any scams. We quickly boarded a boat.
We boarded the third floor of the boat and set off around 8:30 a.m. We grabbed breakfast on the boat. The coffee was particularly good.
As we sailed along the Buriganga River towards Barisal, it was evident that the pollution here had made a permanent mark. Locals are aware of the river’s condition, and it represents a prime example of river occupation and pollution. As soon as the distinct smell of oil disappeared, we knew we had crossed the Buriganga.
Life by the river fascinates me endlessly. The lives of the people are intricately connected with the river. As we passed Chandpur and moved on toward Meghna, small boats rocked with the waves from the larger ships. The waves crash against the riverbanks, a constant reminder of the river's power. In Sanskrit, there is a beautiful line that translates to: "It is the deer's flesh that is responsible for the deer’s death." These waves contribute to the erosion of the riverbanks.
The children on the riverbanks are most interested in the passing boats, chasing the splashing water from the waves. The riverbanks are a strange place; they provide shelter yet can also strip people of everything they have.
We reached Barisal around 1:30 p.m. Barisal is a famous city in Bangladesh, and a large portion of the country’s food supply comes from here. Located along the Kirtonkhola River, it was once known for its large salt trees, which is how it got its name. Many notable figures, including Sher-e-Bangla A.K. Fazlul Haque and Birshreshtha Mohiuddin Jahangir, were born here. The poet who made "Banalata Sen" famous worldwide, Jibanananda Das, also hails from Barisal. After having lunch, we headed to the Rupatali bus station.
After a bit of haggling, we found out there were no direct non-stop buses to Kuakata. Dr. Kibria made several calls and eventually confirmed that there was a BRCTC bus leaving at 4 p.m., so we had to wait another hour. The bus turned out to be local, and the journey was less than pleasant—packed with people and uncomfortable seats. The three-and-a-half-hour journey from Barisal to Kuakata was the most frustrating part of the trip.
Finally, we reached Kuakata. The area is located in the Mahipur Thana of Patuakhali District. By the time we arrived, it was almost 8 p.m. We got on a rickshaw and headed straight to the hotel. Along the way, we saw the market of the Rakhine people.
The name of this region is tied to the arrival of the Arakanese people. It is believed that in the 18th century, the Arakanese fled from Burma and settled here. They dug wells to solve the problem of freshwater shortage, which gave the region its name, Kuakata.
Kuakata is known as the "Sea Princess." The majority of the livelihood in this region revolves around the sea. The hotel, where the Coastal River Conference was held, was not far from the bus stop. After arriving, we were assigned our rooms. After a quick meal, we headed back to our rooms without delay.
The conference began early the next morning. By the time we heard the speeches of prominent speakers, it was already noon. After lunch and a short rest, we went out to see the sea. I was mistaken in thinking Kuakata would be as warm as Cox’s Bazar. The temperature had dropped below 9°C that night (which is really cold for Bangladesh), and the sea breeze felt like it had come from Antarctica. I wore two warm coats, so I didn’t feel much of the cold.
A small part of the beach is designated as the tourist zone. Tourists are allowed to go across both sides of the beach, but there is some sort of restriction for safety reasons. We walked around the beach for about an hour before returning to the hotel.
After the conference’s final session, we were treated to a cultural program. The program was a traditional dance based on local folklore. The performance was amazing; I had never seen such precision in movements before. By the time the program concluded, we were thoroughly impressed.
Kuakata is a promising tourist destination in Bangladesh. Unlike anywhere else in the country, both the sunset and sunrise can be seen together here. This unique feature naturally attracts many tourists. However, to popularize a tourism sector, continuous transportation facilities are necessary. Due to the lack of good transportation options from Barisal, the journey to Kuakata can be colorless for many. It is crucial to draw the attention of the relevant authorities to this matter. Moreover, the 'Kua' (well) from which the region got its name could be branded as a symbolic landmark, creating new tourist spots in the area. The 'partial Sundarbans' and nearby tourism destinations can also benefit from improved transportation systems to enhance accessibility.
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